I’ve run 15 kg or so of filmmaker ASA through my Voron.

Things I’ve learned:

1. Let your printer heat soak, especially if you’re printing a bigger part. Heat helps your print. It will also give your printer frame time to stabilize. My Voron grows in z as it heats up. I’ve printed multiple objects sequentially in one print without letting it heat soak and watched the first layers get worse and worse as the nozzle wound up further and further from the bed on each successive object
2. Clean your bed. IPA is all well and good, but dish soap, your fingers to clean, and paper towel to dry is better. If your PEI sheet is new, scuffing it up some isn’t a bad idea. You can use the rough side of a new yellow sponge for this, but you’ll want to make that sponge a cleaning sponge afterwards
3. Some shapes are more warp prone than others. If you design your own parts you can design around this to a certain extent. Avoid sharp corners and big aspect ratios (eg much wider than deep, etc)
4. A printing a draft shield around your part will probably help
5. Get your chamber warmer. You can do this with a mix of bed fans and insulation. My biggest print to date was pulled off with a 60 degree chamber. It had zero warping. My printer couldn’t hit that chamber temp stock

Other ideas:

• I’ve never used adhesive promotors on my bed
• Even with a part stuck to the bed, I’ve had it warp 4-5 inches above the bed and crack before I figured out how to get my chamber temp up
• With a big enough print I’ve pulled my bed plate up from the magnet thanks to warping. Again, the only solution I found for this was getting my chamber temp up
• I personally run my bed at 100 °C and haven’t had any issues
• I’ve found Polymaker’s ASA very easy to print on the cooler side, so I like to run it at 240 first layer/230 subsequent layers. Maybe try a temp tower? I was using 245 initially and was getting tons of wispy (super fine) stringing
• With a warmer chamber you can run more fan since you won’t be cooling the part as much

I borrowed a thermometer from work that gets calibrated every couple weeks or so, and measured the surface of the bed of my printer. when the bed reads 90 in the printer firmware, the surface is only 78, but if I leave it for another 20 minutes or so both will be 100. My printer’s temp probe is on the bottom, and the top has a magnet then spring steel. It takes a while for it to heat all the way through.

My chamber temps were also totally wrong so I changed the temp probe and that was fixed.

My abs problems went away, asa still curls but I’m leaning towards that being slicer settigs

edit: i was also testing setting the temp too high then dropping it when the surface is at the target, but the plastic sheath on the crimped ferrules melted and the screw terminal bubbled. there might be stuff I could do to make it safer but I’m not inclined to chase it right now.

1. That bed temp is too high, past the Tg. You should be able to use 95c for both.

2. The chamber temp is likely fine, I typically get my chamber to about 45c on my x1c by throwing a blanket over it and it does abs fine. Maybe try throwing a blanket over your enclosure too to get it to that magic 50C.

3. Is the filament dry? One of the first symptoms you’ll see with bad, wet filament is really poor bed adhesion and much higher warpage, even if its not wet enough to cause the typical problems of nozzle foaming and stringing. YMMV but I’ve found maybe 80% of spools of ASA Ive opened so far end to be “wet” out of the box from multiple manufacturers. So definitely consider drying all your spools before going down any other path.

4. A smooth plate has better adhesion than a textured plate, if you have one available.