I have some very consistent issues with warping when printing ASA/ABS, which is really annoying since I’m trying to print my voron parts. It’s not warping massively, but enough to mess things up.
I print with these general settings, on a textured PEI flex-plate.
- heated chamber @ 45-47C (can’t go much higher)
- bed temp @105C
- first layer 255C, other layers 245C
- fan off, unless it’s an overhang >=50% or layer time is <10s. Fan maxes out @70% unless bridging.
- speed 200/120 mm/s inner/outer walls
- first layer 50mm/s, 80mm/s infill
I’ve tried both with my regular Z-offset which creates a good uniform first layer, and slightly lower to kind of push it more on to the plate (but worse looking)
- I’ve cleaned the plate with pure IPA
- I’ve tried glue stick
- I’ve tried brim both skirts/mouse ears, which help but don’t eliminate it. (5mm, 0.15mm space)
ABS seems to be a little easier to print than the ASA. I’m using filament from Polymaker
That bed temp is too high, past the Tg. You should be able to use 95c for both.
The chamber temp is likely fine, I typically get my chamber to about 45c on my x1c by throwing a blanket over it and it does abs fine. Maybe try throwing a blanket over your enclosure too to get it to that magic 50C.
Is the filament dry? One of the first symptoms you’ll see with bad, wet filament is really poor bed adhesion and much higher warpage, even if its not wet enough to cause the typical problems of nozzle foaming and stringing. YMMV but I’ve found maybe 80% of spools of ASA Ive opened so far end to be “wet” out of the box from multiple manufacturers. So definitely consider drying all your spools before going down any other path.
A smooth plate has better adhesion than a textured plate, if you have one available.
I’ll give 95C bed a try, I do have a smooth PEI bed as well so I’ll try that one too. Filaments should be dry, but I’ll give them another round in the dryer before trying again.
Yeah, it’s counterintuitive but too high of a bed temp can cause less adhesion as it makes the first layer plastic underneath too soft. 95 to 100 should be all you need, unless you verify with an external thermocouple that your bed surface runs too cold vs the printer’s thermistor.