I have a Sig Sauer p320, had to send it in to get the “drop issue” fixed. Doesn’t matter how much you spend, engineering failures are everywhere. Not so much a knock on Hi Point as the neighborhood is live in. The one I found discarded in my yard two years ago had been rusted to the point of being inoperable.

My neighborhood would be seized up Hi-Points

Apparently no one has seen Silence of the Lambs

This is getting ridiculous. While I only have an associates degree in CAD and machine design, I’m pretty sure I can pick out when a piece of 4040 extrusion is BENT, and i own and know how to use engineering squares. It wasn’t an assembly mistake on my part. Since you buy them literally all the time on Ebay, someone must’ve snatched mine up before you could, since this NEVER happens. By your own admission, that extruder, from my generation, was junk. Yes it was only a $15 fix, and really, if you’re going to get into this hobby you should be able to swap this part out, but the point stands-

First machine I bought was an OOB failure. When I brought it back to the store they opened the box and confirmed this with me. They did not need a finely honed straightedge to confirm it, the top gantry extrusion was bent.

Round two, the machine did okay, aside from the bed seemingly “losing” it’s trimming. I purchased the “yellow springs” and installed them. This, at the time, seemed to resolve the issue. Until it didnt. At that point, I purchased and installed Creality’s own ABL, I believe it was the CR touch, but you’ll surely correct me if I’m wrong, after looking into several reviews/yt videos and multiple installation guides (somewhere during this time the extruder went, and yes, this was an easy fix with the red aluminum one). This is when I learned that the glass PEI bed that came with my machine was no longer flat. Fair enough, I figured this was a consumable part and bought another one. This did solve the problem again… until it didn’t. This one had warped as well, as confirmed with a good, flat straightedge (an 18" Starrett 385, to be exact). It wasn’t from improperly tensioned belts. Rather than attack someone personally over their experience, you scream Creality’s praises on the internet and seem to insist that my experiences could not have happened. Sure, I bet you and your team are able to resurrect broken down machines, and that is fantastic. It keeps junk from filling up landfills and may even be able to get someone into the hobby at a lower price point. I commend you on this, honestly. However, after dumping time and money into the second machine Iexperienced from them, I decided it was no longer worth the effort. Mind you, these things all happened in about 8-9 months. I got some pretty good prints from it, but I also got a lot of failures, and when those kept piling up I cut my losses. As I’ve repeatedly stated, this was MY experience. Yours has clearly been different. I’m fully aware that scores of people likely fuck up these machines by putting them together incorrectly- I assure you this was not the case on mine.

Sure thing, chief. You were there when I bought the 1st one, there when I returned it for another one, and then held my hand through the tough times with the 2nd one. I salute you.

That was MY experience. You, as a 3d printer repair shop owner, had / have a different one. When a shop takes one back for a blatant defective part, do they send it to you? When that non-glass filled, poorly casted brass geared extruder breaks and it’s an easy-enough $15ish dollar swap, does it cone to you? Or do the majority of people just try it and it works long enough for them to think, “well maybe if I just throw a little more time and money into it, it’ll be good enough”? I. Me. The guy who’s responding. Had multiple bad experiences with Creality printers. I’m done with them. My Bambu has been great since I’ve bought it, no maintenance aside from cleaning the carbon rods and the stray strands that make their way under the build plate. I repeatedly said, that was MY experience. I won’t recommend them to anyone until I see major changes in their hardware. Feel free to disagree, but you’re trying to argue with me regarding what I dealt with for far too long before I bought a printer that… wait for it… just works.

I would imagine the one I returned got shipped back to the manufacturer or distributor, I can’t say for certain, but I’d guess most people who had such an obvious defect out of the box would do the same thing, might explain why you’ve never seen one. And, yes, I improperly lumped the poorly spec’d brass extruder gear into QA, you are correct, it was poor design. My point stands, Creality, at least from the period I bought mine, (likely manufactured during that era) had poor QA / poor design. I eventually got tired of manually trimming the bed every few prints, installed the Creality abl switch which really didn’t do much other than highlight the fact that the glass/PEI Creality beds seemed to warp on me. Once again, I’m speaking on my own experience, and if you’re new to the hobby and feel that Creality printers have improved enough to the point where they are reliable and relatively hands-off maintenance-wise, feel free to purchase one. My advice is worth exact as much as everyone else’s, one random voice on the internet.

I’m just going on personal experience, 1st e3v2 I bought had a bent gantry extrusion (box was not damaged) and I had to deburr several of the holes. Luckily microcenter is local to me and I was able to exchange it. 2nd one was good for about a month before I had to replace the extruder as the teeth had worn off to the point it would slip and make that fun clicking sound we all know and love. I was only printing standard Inland PLA, nothing filled or overly abrasive. All ghings being equal, as someone new to the hobby at the time, spending more time and money trying to get it to print “ok” versus trusting it to not fail a 10+ hour print finally got to me. Not sure about their newer machines as my Ender experience left a bad taste in my mouth. Personally, when people ask what I’d recommend, I default to Prusa or Bambu (I went with Bambu), or Sovol or Quidi for more budget friendly options. I’ve heard Creality’s newer stuff is better, but I’m not planning on buying any more of their stuff. Eventually I’ll jump down the Voron rabbit hole, but too many other projects at the moment, plus a 350x350x350 machine is going to take up serious space in my print room.

Tl;dr : if you have a creality machine and you’re happy with it, by all means. One can only speak on their personal experience.

Agree with everything with one caveat - creality QA is absolute dogshit.

WONDEROUS!!!

Ordinarily I’m all for doing your own work on your own guitar, but unless you’ve done major work to a guitar before, I’d take it to a good luthier. Even a minor alignment error and you’ve got holes in your guitar that will ruin any resale value it has. That being said, if you’re willing to take the risk, a bigsby shouldn’t be too hard to install if you’ve replaced a bridge, shimmed a neck or slotted your own nut before. It’s all about getting it located and mounted correctly the first time.

Reminds me of this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKS3MGriZcs

I still say she’s Napoleon Dynamite in drag

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-4mvK2FW78

Plugging the cord in the same outlet isn’t dangerous itself, but the prongs will be live on the end that’s not plugged in, I’d suggest not touching them. Where it IS dangerous is when people try to use them with a generator to back feed their panel. Don’t do that.

Silo tits?

Why stop at just one?

High bass, low treble versus no bass and no treble?

Gotcha. Semantics lol. My understanding is if two pieces of wood used to be the same piece of wood (crack or break repair) use hide glue. If they’ve always been different pieces of wood to use titebond/pva wood glue.

I also should have noted I fixed this exact same issue with hide glue, hence why I recommended it. It’s not hard to find and will do the job correctly, like @foggy said

This. But I’d use hide glue and then after filling the crack with the glue, use a suction cup to pull it through both sides

That’s awesome. It’s great to hear that a piece of equipment didn’t make it’s way to a landfill and is back in use!

My former employer, for… reasons… had a bunch of old guitars, mostly acoustic, in various states of disrepair that they were literally about to throw in a dumpster. Some were actually quite nice, a Breedlove and two Alvarez’s, but there were cracked headstocks, chips, body cracks and other issues. I was able to convince them to give them to me and so far I’ve rehabilitated the Breedlove, and I’m still testing one of the Alvarez’s (headstock was cracked between two of the tuning peg holes) with a little glue and some love. I plan on donating them all once I get through them, as I’m an electric player and really have no room for 8 more guitars, but I couldn’t stand the thought of them just being tossed in the trash