Very nice shitpost OP, very nice.
Very nice shitpost OP, very nice.
Not far right, just right. But yeah unfortunately not a surprise.
Yeah I’m pretty bumped too. I really would like to test it with a framerate analysis tool to check if my eyes are deceiving me but I don’t know any that’s free/open source.
I received the game yesterday. It’s not bad but there’s a clear lack of polish to it and framerate is all over the place. Frankly, I cannot recommend it for now, perhaps wait for corrective patches.
On parle de révision là, pas d’une constituante pour faire une VIème, si ?
Moi je comprends que c’est un appel à une constituante. Après, j’ai tendance à comprendre ce que j’ai envie donc bon…
C’est des ricains faut pas trop leur demander de finesse non plus
basé, même
Config 1.2, invert look inside the game. Invert both sticks in the Switch configuration menu for mapping controller.
You’ll have modern controls.
I managed to do that (not an easy fit but I think I’ve achieved the measurement properly) and you’re right: the cable itself it probably of very poor quality. Given that Blueretro is mostly a DIY project I think I’ll make the cable adapter myself instead of trying to fix what is obviously not fixable.
Thanks for the help!
Only Blueretro is affected. Maybe the Blueretro NES adapter cable has just poor quality components. The other cable adapters I have for other consoles work fine, including the SNES which also operates in 5V.
It should be possible to power the BlueRetro using the controller port only. IIRC, the controller pins providing power are directly connected to the internal NES regulator, so with enough headroom to spare, you should be good to go. Eventually, this will depend on the firmware of the ESP-WROOM module used by the BlueRetro (max. current draw for the ESP32 should be around 250mA with all peripherals enabled and transmitting, I’d expect the BlueRetro to use quite a bit less in normal operation). That’s also what the 8BitDo is doing, running at around 100mA.
That’s what I thought too. I originally ordered 4 cables (NES, SNES, N64 & GC). I only had troubles with the NES so I decided to just get a replacement. But the replacement has the exact same behaviour, so this is either an issue with my NES or the cable is not designed properly for PAL NES.
Where did you get the level shifter cable from?
What do you mean by that? The cable itself? It’s from Aliexpress.
I’d also like to know the results of your voltage measurement in operation
As stated below:
If push comes to shove and you decide to replace the LDO, the TLV1117LV made by TI would be a potential candidate, should be a drop-in replacement with better specs (price is about $0.30)
Will it change something when the input power is so low? I feel like I might as well connect the 5V rail directly to the 3.3V input on the Blueretro…
What’s is the voltage you measure on the AMS1117?
3.53V on input, 2.61V on the output.
Does the voltage you measure change when you connect via Bluetooth?
I can’t even connect via Bluetooth. The adapter is effectively not functioning at all: the green power LED indicator is functional but you can’t connect anything to it.
Do your measurements change when USB powered?
Measurements are 4.54V on input of the AMS1117 when powered through USB, output is 3.35V (which seems « normal »).
Does the 4.6V output from the controller drop when you connect over Bluetooth?
As stated before can’t even connect through Bluetooth.
Are you measuring the ports when something is connected or when the ports are open?
The 4.8V measured on the controller port are when nothing is connected.
Does your blueretro work on the ports of the other NES devices?
I unfortunately can’t test the other NES as I don’t have access to them. But I tested the same Blueretro Core on SNES, N64 & GameCube without any issues. From what I got, the SNES, N64 & GameCube controller ports are outputing 3.3V directly, not 5V.
The 74AHCT125N appears to be a 3v to 5v level shifter
I don’t think the cable adapter is using this particular chip. I see two much smaller ones. Maybe that’s the issue.
To be abundantly clear, is the Blueretro meant to work when only powered by the console? It certainly wouldn’t be as convenient – an extra cable and power block to deal with – but everything is functional when externally powered by USB, yes?
That’s right Blueretro is supposed to be powered by the console alone. When powerd by USB, it is perfectly functional.
Do I understand that your original post is debugging why the console isn’t sufficient to power the Blueretro?
That’s correct.
What I’ve measured so far:
There are some active components inside the adapter itself, I guess this could explain the drop 0.2V drop.
So is it sagging?
I can respond to at least your second question right now: I can power the Blueretro from USB while on the console that’s how I know it is functioning properly when powered properly (my original post wasn’t clear enough I guess).
I’ll test the voltage while powered on as soon as I can.
:pikachusurpris:
Si la situation actuelle dure, il n’y aura peut-être plus vraiment le choix, y compris à droite.