Well that’s one way to plug your memory leaks

Hah I totally whispered that line in the theater when it came out! The Matrix had come out recently so you just couldn’t unsee it.

I second the suggestion of befriending the dog: get some good dog treats and essentially train it. Imagine the look on the neighbor’s face if everyone is outside and the dog obeys your verbal commands. Delicious!

I already have a pair of shoes that are permanently imbued with this fragrance 😂

Good idea! Unfortunately this chip doesn’t have a 5G radio 😭

I mean all the components have a purpose, none are just there for decoration

There is an RGB led in the lower right, so yes if you program it to! I didn’t make provisions for battery power on this one though so it’s not meant to light up while worn. The unpopulated spot in the upper right is for the microcontroller. My wife preferred the look of the processor missing so I didn’t solder one down on hers.

Boards are fiberglass at their core so most cutting tools work just fine—hacksaw, jigsaw, dremel, bandsaw. It’s abrasive though so a note of caution that it will wear out cutters quicker

It’s kind of like a microprocessor development board—there are a few different circuits to play with that are connected to the processor. So ultimately it won’t do anything unless you stick some code inside

Ahh it’s still available! linky

A keyboard is essential so it’s not mobile appropriate.

Isn’t this game made by the same person/group that did QWOP and GIRP? Man I miss girp that was the first and only game I tried speedrunning.

Does that top surface feel ridged? To me this looks more like an issue with either overextrusion or z offset too low than temperature.

The way that the heaters turn on and off is by using a gcode command. So my first thought is that somehow the new slicing profile is not spitting out those commands. Try comparing the generated gcode from slicing the same model in both versions and see what’s different. The temperature commands have to be at the start so should be easy to find. The gcode commands themselves are very googleable.

Sweet! I need one of those too. Do these use vacuum or blow air?

I did something similar. I would get about as far as writing the interesting mechanic/game logic and then give up.

Another vote for prusa here. The recently added organic supports are really awesome. It’s enabled me to print some things I previously would not have attempted.

Before you go the octoprint or other hosted app route, I humbly suggest printing from the SD card while you learn the process engineering to get prints to come out decent. This reduces the number of things you have to learn at once, and the points of failure. The workflow is then simply: (1) acquire or design the model (STL file). (2) slice it (generate .gcode file) and copy to sd card. (3) use the touchscreen to run the gcode file.

You’ll spend most of your fiddling on step 2 since you need to learn what temperatures and speeds work well.

Yeah seriously. The day news of this broke, I switched my book library over to Calibre+DeDRM and put my device in airplane mode.

In my experience the hole that the thermistor goes into isn’t in the path of the filament. So probably what’s happening is either the nozzle or the tube that screws into the other side of the heater block is loose, allowing melted plastic to escape through a place other than the tip of the nozzle.

After you’ve cleaned it out, what I like to do before running filament through again is to turn the hot end on, let it come up to temp, then tighten the nozzle a bit more. The joint expands when heated so even if you’ve got it right at room temp it can still need tightening at the working temperature.

That size puts you in the “quite large” category, hah. One example that I know of (because I own one) is the Ender 5 Plus which comes in at 35x35x40cm build volume.